Click, then nothing? Put the key down.
A car that won't start might have a dead battery, an alternator that stopped charging it, a starter on its way out, or a corroded cable. We test all of it where the car sits before we sell you a part. If it's the battery, we bring the right one and fit it there, and many starters and alternators get replaced in the driveway too.
You might need this if…
- A click, then nothing, when you turn the key
- Rapid clicking and flickering dash lights
- The engine turns over a little slower every cold morning
- The battery light came on while you were driving
- Headlights dim at idle and brighten when you rev
- It's needed a boost twice this week
What’s included
On every battery, starter & alternator service visit
- Battery state-of-health and load test
- Charging output test with the engine running
- Starter and starter-circuit checks
- Terminal, cable and ground inspection
- Battery replacement, and registration if the car needs it
- Shop intake when the starter or alternator is buried
How we work
- Battery, alternator and starter testing where the car sits
- Battery replacement on-site, including AGM batteries
- Many starters and alternators replaced in the driveway
How it goes
Tell us exactly what it does
One click, rapid clicking, a slow crank, or cranks but won't fire. Each points somewhere different. Send that with the vehicle and postal code, and we confirm the likely cause and the price before driving out.
Test before replacing
We test the battery, check charging output with the engine running, and check the cables, grounds and starter circuit. That's how we tell a bad battery from a good one that a failing alternator drained.
Replace it and prove it
We fit the right battery and register it if the car needs it, and many starters and alternators get done on-site. Then we start it and re-test the charging. If the part is buried deep, we take the car into a shop and finish it.
Questions about battery, starter & alternator service
Is it the battery or the alternator?
If the car starts on a boost and dies again after a drive, the alternator is a strong suspect. If it starts on a boost and behaves for days, the battery is more likely. A guess isn't a diagnosis, though, so we test both.
Do you bring the battery?
Yes, once we've confirmed the exact battery your car takes. Many newer cars with auto start-stop use AGM or EFB batteries, and some, a lot of European models especially, need the new battery registered to the car so it charges it properly. We handle that on-site.
Why do batteries die on the first really cold morning?
Cold slows the chemistry inside the battery, so it has less to give at the exact moment the engine needs the most help turning over thick, cold oil. A battery that was borderline in October often quits at -25 °C.
Should I keep trying to start it?
No. Don't keep cranking it. You'll turn a dead battery into a dead battery and a cooked starter. Leave it, note what it did, and call or text us.
Read this first
All guides- Car Battery Dying in Cold Weather? Here's What's Going OnCar battery dying in cold weather? Why cold finishes off weak batteries, the signs of a bad one, how to test it properly and how long they last in Canada.
- Car Won't Start? A Mechanic's Checklist by SoundCar won't start? One click, rapid clicking, slow crank or cranks but won't fire: what each sound means, cold-weather fixes and what to tell your mechanic.
Book battery, starter & alternator service
Tell us the car and what it’s doing. Justin calls back with the price before anyone drives out.
Serving Dieppe, Moncton, Riverview, Shediac and Greater Moncton.